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Orphans & Pets Q&A
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Australia
    
   
1
   
Is it possible to "tame" a mature Fallow doe, so that she will become semi-domesticated, and will not reject
handling? How should I go about this? I found the following quote at http://9am.ten.com.au/pets-deer.htm "Easily tamed but semi-domesticated situation". Your advice and help would be greatly appreciated.
   To tame an adult doe takes patience and a routine of feeding every day that gradually gets her used to the idea that your presence equals a meal. Use an attractive feed - grain, concentrate pellets, a few slices of bread. If you can feed her with you sitting not too far away she should get used to your being there. If you are a caring, patient person you will soon have her not fleeing when you approach. Do not rush her, it takes a little time. The process has been called "taming and training" and it does work. Use your voice to sooth her fears - gently and quietly. Good luck.
(26 October 2009)
     
     
2 Hi.  I have a 3yr old black fallow deer that I bottle-raised.  He was castrated at 5 months of age and has not grown
antlers. Recently, however, I have noticed that where his antlers should be, there a quite bony lumps.  Is this normal?  He is very friendly and is never aggressive but if his antlers start to grow I'm afraid I won't be able to keep him.  Also, during winter his coat is very shiny and my vet says he has never seen such a healthy deer before.  During the spring when he sheds his coat it becomes matted and quite ugly until the new summer coat appears.  Is there something I can give him to help shed the coat?
   If he was castrated correctly at 5 months he will not grow antlers, and he should not become aggressive.  During shedding of the coat most deer look a little rough, but that is nothing to worry about.
     
     
3 Could you please tell me if there is a reson why my young deer keeps urinating on his bed? He has a corner in
my lounge behind the table and chairs, which he picked out. Problem is he keeps peeing on his bed and I have to continually wash everything. He has a sleep, gets up has a pee and then lays back down to finish his sleep. He also sort of grinds his teeth occasionally, I know this can normally be a sign of something wrong in most animals but he seems perfectly fine and I have read somewhere it’s another way of communication...He is now drinking around 150 - 200ml a feeding, every 4-5 hrs...
   I can honestly not give you a rational reason why he might be urinating on his bedding - I cannot recall seeing this behaviour.  Hopefully it will pass off with time.  Teeth grinding can mean abdominal pain, but if he is fit and well and passing normal faeces I would not worry about it.
     
     
4 I have read your website which discusses the dangers of a hand-raised buck that is not castrated.  At what age
   should I release the fawn back into the wild and if we do release him, will we still have a problem?  Will the fawn return to us (or other people) and cause harm - even if we don't put out feeders and feed the wild deer or him?
   It is difficult to give you a precise answer because every situation and every animal is different.  If the fawn is already very tame and imprinted on humans then you can expect that to drive his behaviour if you try to turn him loose. You would expect him to stay around the area that he is familiar with, and he may not integrate with any wild deer that may be about.  He will not flee from human so will be more vulnerable to hunters, and he may become aggressive too. But not for certain - if he becomes a little wary of humans then he will mostly move away I guess.
     

   

     
International
    
1 I have been bestowed the honor of raising an orphaned axis buck I believe to be only 2 days old when we found

him. He is now about 11 days to two weeks old. I am feeding him goat milk replacer and giving him about 12 oz 3 times a day. He still acts hungry. He has a runny stool and research tells me to dilute the formula with water. Which i have been doing for about 3days now. He still has runny bowls. He also has little round whitish looking pellets in his stool. Could that be round worms? He has started to shed, I'm talking shedding allot. His little tail is loosing allot of hair. Is that normal? He appears to be energetic, bright eyed, curious, and overall....well...happy. How do I stop his runny stools, is he too young to worm, and whats with the shedding? I have never raised a little deer before. Sheep, calves, puppies, chickens.....but never a deer. Im nervous.

  

Somewhere back in the archives I dealt with the sort of thing you are seeing - you should be able to find it. I guess the main thing to stress is NOT to dilute the milk with water. Give him full strength milk plus an oral electrolyte solution (eg: Lectade) so that he does not become dehydrated, making sure you allow at least 2 hours between a milk feed and the electrolyte. I explain in some detail in the previous post why this is so but it is all to do with the way a pre-ruminant calf digests milk. The milk must clot in the abomasum as a precursor to digestion and if the level of solids in the milk is reduced too much by diluting it with water it cannot form a clot. It also needs to get enough energy from the milk and it struggles to do so if diluted. A calf this young does not need worming. The hair loss is almost certainly a consequence of its general state of health.
It is always a challenge to hand raise a calf this young, but persevere with lots of TLC and you should be rewarded. See also what I have written about making pets out of an entire male deer. Your cute little calf will grow into a very dangerous animal with no fear of you. Castrate him before his antler buds are visible - please believe me or someone will get hurt.

(27 January 2012)

  
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2 I work at the Trinity River Audubon Center outside Dallas, TX. Two weeks ago we encountered a large doe that

was trapped between two groups of hikers on a trail. She fled through a pond and swam into the safety of the forest. Two days later, hikers on the trails began to report a young fawn following them on their hikes. Within a week, several reports were coming in. Today, that fawn came up to the Nature Center doors seeking entrance!
I walked with her for over an hour through man-made trails to the head of several deer paths into the forst. Finally, she took to one and headed off into the forest. Before finding this 'preferred path' she opted to follow me on the trails and tracked me closely - so closely, in fact, that I could pet her for long stretches of time without any fear on her part.
I am afraid that although she left me to follow the deer path back into the forest, that she has imprinted on humans and will continue to return. There is a great debate at the Center as to how best to handle this issue. None of us are large-mammal experts. She has not been fed, however she has been touched, photographed and petted and she definitely enjoys being near humans. In fact, she is not afraid of fairly large groups of humans. We do have a coyote pair on the property and I fear for her safety as she is completely alone.
Can you please advise as to the best protocol to take with her?

  

Your question is more about our own species (ie: humans) than the fawn's. I wish there was a difinitive answer to your question, but this little animal is behaving in a way that is certainly not typical. I can only guess at how she became so tame, unless she has been hand-raised by someone who has released her back into the forest. There really is no other explanation, and if this is the case she will remain firmly imprinted on humans. This will leave her vulnerable to interference by humans. You can only hope that nobody interferes with her and that she will stay there in relative safety. But it will leave her vulnerable to interference by humans who do not know any better.
It is almost tempting to suggest you find a large enclosure where she can stay, hopefully nearby.

(25 October 2010)

  
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3 A buck fawn has been abandoned on my property.  I watched him roam on his own for two days; on the second
day he fell in a lake and was too weak to get out.  I rescued him and am raising him in preparation for transfer to a sanctuary once he is able to cope on his own.   I'm giving him goat's milk and Pedialyte and he's beginning to eat dirt and forage.  He is no longer dehydrated and he has put on weight.  However, I understand buck fawns should weigh between 5 and 8 pounds at birth.  This deer weighs 3.6 pounds; his eyes are still somewhat blue and he has several teeth in addition to his pincers.  I'm guessing him to be 2-3 weeks old; however, his size confuses me. Am I off on guessing his age, or is he a runt, perhaps a triplet?  Is it reasonable to expect that he will attain full size despite his small stature now?  Thanks for any insight you can provide.
  

There is a good correlation between birth weight and perinatal mortality in all mammallian species, including our own. The very small fawns are too weak to get to their feet and to get that first feed of colostrum which is so critical to deficits of all sorts. In the wild it may not be apparent why a doe below a critical weight invariably has a small fawn but it is probably nutritional. In any population of fawning does the fawn birthweights will be a bell curve with those below a certain weight (the actual weights will depend on the species) very likely to die in the first 24 hours of life, and in most species the high end of the curve are the very big fawns that are likely to have a difficult birth. These fawns can survive but many are too damaged by the birth process to survive.
So your very small fawn was clearly in trouble when you found him, and if you had not come along he would have died for sure. In very harsh seasons the birth weights of deer fawns are lower than is desirable, and many may die. You can save lives by feeding and looking after them until they are strong enough to go on without you. But it is a lot of work to do it well, and please remember not to make pets out of entire bucks. They are far too dangerous to keep. Your fawn will grow to a normal size if he survives the next few months. The whole problem for all mammalian neonates is to survive the birth process itself in good condition and a weight that is optimal. The fawn must be strong enought to get on its feet and suckle, and to move with the dam. The bonding of mother and fawn occurs with the first few feeds - after surviving one of the most difficult journeys experienced by a neonate.
(3 September 2010)

  
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4 I'm working in Sudan, and thismorning the locals (who think I killed the mother) gave me a baby blue duiker.
She is weak and can't stand up, but there are no broken bones that I can see. I think she is about a month old. She is struggling to drink. I gave her a little bit of milk. I think she is probably de-hydrated because they didn't know how to feed her. I have put her in a box so that she can't run away. There is no vet here in Sudan, and it is really hot here. The only medication I've got here is for human use, so I was wondering whether I could crush a penecillin pill into her milk. She's got some bruises on her legs as well.
  

I would be surprised if the little duiker is not dead by now – this sort of situation usually ends in tears.  You really are not equipped to deal with such a case, and the animal will very quickly become dehydrated and unless you have the right IV fluids you canot do much.
(16 March 2010)

  
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5 I have a 1 year old buck, I raised from the time he was about 3 hours old. I castrated him at 6 months of age, no
problems yet. He has spikes which are covered by velvet. When and will he loose his velvet? And will his antlers continue to grow as normal? I have 150 acres so I'm always finding orphans who need my help. Now I also have a 3 month old baby deer. He has broken his foot and I'm afraid he can't be rehabilitated. I did take him to a vet and have a spint put on. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  

Your castrated buck is called a perruque and he no longer has the ability to clean off the velvet and develop hard antler. These processes require testosterone, which he no longer produces.  The antlers will continue to grow into abnormal shapes, but they will never harden.
The fawn with the broken foot should be OK if he tolerates the splint and it stays on long enough to allow the fracture to repair itself (6-8 weekes).  If the splint comes off too early your vet will need to make another plan.
(23 September 2009)

  
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6 I work at my Dad's veterinary clinic. We just took in an orphaned fawn that had recently broken its leg. My Mum
treats it like her new baby, so my Dad put a pin in its leg. We have been treating it with Naxcel (1ml) once a day. We took its temperature today at it was 102 or so. I was wondering if you knew what temperature is normal for a deer, and if you had any recommendations for its treatment.
  

Your Dad should treat this fawn just as he would any other small ruminent after orthapeadic surgery, with the main problem being to restrict its movements until union occurs. 102 is febrile - anything much above 99 is elevated. If he is a male remember how aggressive he will become if he is not castrated prepuberally.
(4 July 2009)

  
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7 We found a baby fawn and bottle-fed it with goat's milk and a supplement for about a week. Then one side of its
nose became swollen and a hard lump appeared on its upper gum (under the lip area). I am scared (reading all the various materials out there) that it may be a disease. Are humans able to get sick from fawns that are not wormed, etc? Can dogs catch any of these problems that occur in deer?
  

While there might be organisms that can cross species barriers, it would be quite unusual for humans to get sick from handling a healthy fawn. Just be sure to practice normal hygiene - wash your hands after handling, etc. If a fawn is sick be especially careful, but the risk is fairly small. Same for dogs - a very low risk.
(20 June 2009)

  
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8 We have a fawn about 8 days old. He is active, taking a bottle well and has been having 1 or 2 bowel movements
per day.  Today he is urinating but no bowel movements.  He is on save-a-kid replacement powder mixed 1 cup to 3 cups water.  His prior movements have been soft but not watery.  Is this cause for worry?  Thanks for any help you can give, this is our first fawn this young.
  

Dealing with this type of problem has been one of the most common queries that I have had.  You will find a good guide on what to do with these young fawns in the Deer Health Facts Sheets on this Website, but please remember that I say that it is a guide and not the same definitive answer for every fawn.  You must use your common sense, and your genuine concern for every animal’s plight, to get a good result.  Best of luck.
(7 June 2009)

  
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9 Hello, I rescued a doe when she was about only a couple days old. She is about 1 week now. I have been giving
   putting her goat milk and put a little yohurt in it for the loose stool. I have not ever raised a doe before so I am not sure of when to de-worm her and what else she will need. If you could tell me that would be very helpful.
   You will find all the information that you require on this DIAA Website – just look at the Deer Health Facts Sheets on hand rearing orphan deer.  Of course there are other things that any young animal needs, beyond the words written with such advice.  I guess these are best summed up with the good old  fashioned term TLC (“TENDER LOVING CARE”), which comes down to your own genuine concern for the animal’s welfare, and the steps that you take to ensure that the young creature is well looked after in every respect.  Good luck.
(3 June 2009)
  
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10 I rescued a White Tail Deer about a week ago.  A couple of days ago she started getting diarrhoea.  I'm
   putting Kaopectate in her bottles now plus a little yoghurt.  I asked a guy at our feed and seed store about it and he gave me some ground wheat, I think it is to mix in her bottles.  All these seem to not be helping at all.  The diarrhoea is not getting worse but not getting better.  What can I do to make this stop?  The powdered milk replacer I'm using is for cows.  Should I be using powdered goat replacer?  Any help would be great.  Thanks!
   This type of problem is fairly common in young fawns that find themselves in this predicament, due basically to the stresses involved in what must be a terrifying experience at first, until the animal comes to realise that you have taken over the role of his mother.  And thus begins the imprinting process which is the enemy of anyone seeking to return these deer to the wild. 
It may seem that I am getting off the subject of your query, but it is the background to the diarrhoea that your fawn is suffering.  If it persists the fawn will become dehydrated and this is what you must try and prevent, or treat, as may be necessary. 
There is also the risk of pathogenic organisms (read "nasty bugs") will jump in and take advantage of a weakened fawn - salmonellosis and yersiniosis are examples of these enteric infections.  Use an electrolyte preparation such as Lectade as I have described in the Factsheet: "
Orphan Deer - The Basics".  If the fawn has a temperature you should talk to your veterinarian about antibiotic treatment.  But otherwise tackle the dehydration and provide lots of TLC.  Good luck.
(13 May 2009)
  
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11a Is it normal behaviour that a hand-raised buck be aggressive towards the doe (also a hand-raised doe)? He started
being aggressive to her in April, and the two deer live together in an enclosed environment - they were both rescued when they were fawns. Do roe deer usually stay in groups? Can we continue to keep the two animals together? The injuries were minor, but we are afraid that things may get worse. The buck is not castrated - it is one year old, and is very aggressive to humans as well. Looking forward to hearing from you! 
   You have a very dangerous animal on your hands.  Not only is he capable of killing your doe but he will do the same to a human one day, almost for sure.  You must NEVER trust him, or allow anybody to enter his enclosure.  Are you sure you want to take that risk?
11b Thank you very much for your quick answer. Tomorrow we will try to separate the doe from the buck (the doe
belongs to me, and the buck to some guy who wants to "breed" them - his reasons are not clear to me). The buck has already attacked me once (about 2 weeks ago); it was a dangerous situation, because I fell down and had to hold him by the horns while he was tossing me around - and I must say that I am 1,85 metres tall, I weigh 104 kilos, and my hobbies include martial arts and bodybuilding... I wonder what would have happened if a little kid had been in my place. I am very nervous about tomorrow, I hope that everything goes well with the transportation of the doe and everything, and no one gets harmed. I just can't understand why the owner of the buck wants to keep him - he is the father of 2 kids who are always around the enclosure, and one source of "good fun" for them is to "play" with the buck from the other side of the fence.
You be very careful - it sounds like he was only partially aroused to attack you last time.  If he gets deadly serious (no pun intended) you will not be able to hold him.  You cannot imagine just how strong and fast they can be.  I would ensure that you have a suitable firearm available, provided of course that you have the required permits.  The owner needs to be advised in the strongest possible terms to dispose of this animal - there is a tragedy just waiting to happen. 
  
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12 I found a baby white tailed fawn whose mother was killed by a car.  I think she is pretty new.  I talked to someone
who said she needed goat’s milk.  I bought canned goats milk.  I was mixing it one can milk one can water, then I found out it was too strong, mix one can milk two cans water.  She seems like she is doing fine but she has diarrhoea.  I clean her with warm paper towels, but she goes on her own all the time.  She also will get up and walk around a while then she goes to her bed and goes to the bathroom and sleeps in it.  What can I do for the diarrhoea?  Should I still help her go to the bathroom and how often?  Is this normal for her to go to the bathroom in her bed? 
   It is quite a specialised task to raise an orphaned new born fawn, and when they get into the difficulties that you describe you really should take it to a veterinarian for appropriate diagnosis and treatment.  Otherwise it will almost surely die.  
  
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13 I recently found an orphaned/ abandoned white-tailed deer (2-3 days old) on my property.  I have been feeding
him Land-O-Lakes replacement milk and trying to "sneak" in some concentrated vitamins & electrolytes in his milk (he does not like them).  I am also giving him a dose of Lactic Acid Bacteria (5 g).  How often should I give the bacteria? 
He is also having a little trouble walking on his front legs. I don't think that he has developed that muscle up yet.  Any suggestions or will the figure it out on his own? 
I also have the problem of him lying in his own urine. Is this something that fawns do, or do I need to correct this behaviour?  Should I just concentrate on feeding him milk & vitamins? 
I am trying to feed him every 4 hours, but sometimes he just won't take any milk.  How many ounces should I feed him at each feeding?  When should I introduce solid food and what kind?  I also noticed that in previous e-mails that hand raised male fawns become aggressive bucks.  Is there any way to prevent this?  When should I try to reintroduce my deer back into my woods?  What should I be teaching him to survive, or do I have a pet deer on my hands?  I know that I have too many questions to answer.  Is there a website or a book that can answer my numerous questions?
   By now I guess the fawn is either doing well or dead.  It sounds like he was quite weak to begin with, and that makes it a great challenge for you to get him started.  If he is unable to stand and lying in his urine, those are not the signs of a well fawn. I would not worry too much about lactic acid at this stage, just focus on feeding him little and often until he is strong.  Every 4-6 hours is about right.  Try adding an egg yolk to the milk replacer, and the vitamins are OK too.
  
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14 I took in an orphaned whitetail buck who was about 1 day old.  His first two feedings were goat colostrum and
then fresh goat’s milk from a bottle.  He has been doing great.  One BM per day when I massage his rectum, and he is now peeing on his own and taking the milk heartily.  Currently he gets 5oz of fresh goat’s milk every 4 hours.  Today he had diarrhoea.  What do I need to do?
   He will need extra fluid and electrolytes, but keep him on full strength goat's milk at the same time.  The fluids (eg. Lectade or Vytrate) should be given as a warm drink no closer than 4 hours to a milk feed.   If he does not respond quickly you should consult a local veterinarian.
  
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15a I have had a 12 day old orphaned white tail deer at my home for 9 days.  He was doing well until yesterday when
he started having loose stools.  I immediately cut down on his milk and starting giving him peptobismol.  He has not improved.  His stool is presently like water.  He is refusing to take his bottle at all at present.  I purchased a child’s pedialyte and have been force-feeding with a syringe.  I have also been giving him Imodium A/D since the peptobismol seemed to have no effect.
   If he is dehydrated and too depressed to drink he will almost certainly need intravenous fluids.  You should contact your local veterinarian.  If he is not treated very promptly now you are likely to lose him.  When treating a fawn with diarrhoea you should not take it off milk, since that removes its source of energy and it effectively starves.  It needs additional fluids and electrolytes - but not closer than 4 hours to a milk feed.  Otherwise the milk in its abomasum is diluted too much for the normal clot to form.
15b Thank you for your prompt response.  I carried the little fellow to the Vet and he administered electrolytes,
banamine, diarrhoea medicine and fluid under the skin.  He sent these meds home with me to administer.  The Baby (Cruise) is gaining strength, but he still has diarrhoea (water-like).  The Vet advised to take him off his milk for 24 hours and administer electrolytes.  I am unsure of the amount of ounces and the strength of milk to feed him to prevent overfeeding again.  The milk that I have for him is baby goat's milk replacer.  Are there other web-sites that I can read and learn about his care?  I do not want to be troublesome to anyone by asking so many questions, but I surely want to do the right thing for him.
I don't know of any web-sites that cover this well.  Keep up the treatment that you have been given.  It's actually quite difficult to overfeed - they generally take what they need.  The advice to take them off milk is commonly given, but we know now that this is not a good idea - it only deprives them of energy.
  
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16 I have a 6wk old whitetail fawn with ongoing problems with diarrhoea.  He has been seen by our vet several
times for different problems.  He was apparently injured (on the head) by dogs when he was about 2 weeks old.  He has since recovered from those injuries, but continues to have the diarrhoea problem in spite of Kaopectate, Peptobismal, immodium, 2 different kinds of medication prescribed by the vet, enzymes to aid digestion, yogurt, acidopholus capsules, etc. (Not all at once, of course.) Nothing has worked.   Would it hurt to try him on an infant formula soymilk?  He has had goat milk the entire time.  Also he has access to fresh water, grass, leaves, clean sand/soil, a few >apple and carrot slices and grain for goats.  I am at my wits end to know what to do for him.  He has cramping when he passes his foul smelling stool.  The vet says it is just undigested milk and mucous, no sign of bacteria, etc. 
He wants me to wean him ASAP but he just isn't mature enough to get enough nourishment without milk.  Also, I have been very careful with his bottles, washing them immediately and letting them air dry and never reheating any of his milk.  I just can't figure it out.
   It is very difficult to give definitive advice about an individual animal without seeing it - especially one that has had so much treatment already.  He may have acquired a fungal bowel infection, but I cannot be sure of course.  The advice to start weaning him is sound - at least make sure that he has access to green feed and pellets, and clean water, and start taking him off milk as his consumption of solids increases.  That might take several weeks.  It is always a good idea to weigh him regularly if you can too.  Last but not least, don't forget that by making a pet of a male deer you are producing a very dangerous animal in due course.  He must be castrated before he grows antler pedicles - at 5-7 months.
  
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17a An elderly woman in my rural area has a pet deer, she will kill
anyone over it. It gets along with her dog. It is in and out of the house and Bucky sleeps in bed with her. It was neutered early. She unfortunately feeds it anything it will eat, and it is very selective. Her son has some questions since the deer and her are inseparable, and this mountain gal you cannot mess with.  She is keeping Bucky even if the rest of the family has to GO.  Anyway please help us with 2 year old Bucky.

Bucky

   The situation that you describe is certainly unusual, and I have to say I am not convinced that it is in the animal's best interests.  I do not believe that deer should be used as pets in this way.  Sadly, he is now so imprinted on the lady that to make any changes would be extremely distressing for him.   At least by having him de-sexed at an early age he is not aggressive towards humans. The animal can be fed as for any housed ruminant - alfalfa chaff, a pelleted concentrate and freshly cut green feed when it is available. With such a sedentary lifestyle it may well need to have its hooves trimmed 2-3 times a year.  Just who would do this, and whether the deer would need sedation are questions that will need to be asked.  It will probably be necessary to engage a veterinarian. I doubt that endoparasites are a problem, but a pour-on avermectin cannot do any harm.  The droppings can be tested by a veterinarian.
17b Tony, thank you so much for the information. The pour-on ivermectin is a good idea and I am assuming the dosage
is the same as for cows - by animal weight.  I too had my reservations, but this animal will not volitionally return to the wild, and around here it is a death sentence -maiming with an arrow would be too much for the owner.  I think she likes him more than her own young-uns. 
Yes he is imprinted although I have not seen him.  He goes outside to urinate with the dog and just comes right back in. Some story. Thank you too for the feeding instructions. I don’t think we wean anything in poorest of Appalachia, not even humans. 
PS Many questions come to my mind about nature v nurture when I think of him and the beagles and the owner.  How about you?   If you know of another case like this let me know as she would be interested in knowing of it.  (Image: Bucky quite a while after being rescued from an oncoming hay bailer.)
I guess this indicates that one should keep an open mind - he appears to be one very contented deer. As you say he cannot go back to the wild now, whatever we might wish to happen. I still feel that we should not be making pets out of wild animals like deer, but accept this case on its merits. Your part of the world is obviously very different to mine, but there are some fundamental issues that apply everywhere.  Nature vs nurture - I guess that is one of them. I visited the Galapagos Islands several years ago, and that is a grand place to ponder such things.
  
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18a Dear Dr, Yesterday our dog chased a deer that was in our yard. In the process of the chase, she was injured and
had to be taken down. At that point we realized she had two fawns. It was clear that she was still nursing them and they are still in the 6 foot fenced yard. How do we help the two survive and return to the wilderness? We could cut the fence but we know that they were seen in other yards. How long can they live in the yard eating the grass and drinking from the natural spring without mothers milk? Will they leave this area or stay in the yard, hopeful the mother will return? The spring will dry as the summer progresses. (We live in Coos Bay Oregon in the coastal forest area). Do you know of deer rescue agencies out here?
   I understand you to say that the mother was so badly injured that she was euthanized?  If so then her two fawns are in urgent need of assistance, or they will surely die an unpleasant death.  They are simply not old enough to fend for themselves even in a familiar environment, let alone the terrifying situation they are now in. They need to be dealt with by people who know what to do, as any attempts at capture will be totally stressful and inhumane.  I do not know who might be found in your area, but why not call the local wildlife authorities and ask. You cannot just leave them to die - it would be far more humane to euthanize them too,
rather than have them also mauled by dogs etc.   So don't try to sort out the problem yourself - find someone who is able to determine the best solution.  I cannot give it to you from here.
18b Thank you so much. I am working with a local vet, and with the Oregon Fish and Wildlife Association. I did put a
large bucket of water and some grain for them, only to add comfort until we can get the appropriate rescue or euthanasia established.
You have done well by these little creatures - good work
18c Dear doctor, Thank you for your feedback. I learned that we have a wildlife safari here in Oregon that welcomes
  baby animals to rescue. They receive animals and return them to their wilderness area when it is appropriate. I notified them last night. Thanks so much for being available!
That's a great outcome 
  
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19
   
Do deer need to be wormed or need any vaccines before being released into the wild? I am writing on orphaned deer and would like to know if they need anything special before release and what is a good age to release?
   If the deer is healthy I would not treat or vaccinate unless there are local problems which I may be unaware of.  Check with your vet. There is no "right" age as such, but the animal must be clearly able to look after itself in every respect.
  
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20 Hi, we are from Florida and raise Whitetails and Sika deer.  I have been bottle-feeding my fawns for 4 years now,
and (knock on wood), have never lost one.  My record for bottle-feeding in one season was 21 which I did last year.  It was a job, but I do love it.  Anyway, I have looked all over the deer sites and forums for some help with newborns.  I have 2 deer this year where I may have to take their fawns earlier than usual. I usually leave them with mama for 12-20 hours to make sure they get the necessary colostrum.  But if I had to take a fawn before that time, and I do not have any available colostrum, is there a way to make something that will benefit the fawn?  I know there are colostrum replacements.  But if I can't get any when I need it, what can I do for the fawn to give it what it needs?  I read somewhere that you could make a "colostrum-like" milk just in case there was no colostrum available.  Any help will be greatly appreciated. 
   A simple solution is to find goat breeder and arrange to collect colostrum from females that have just had a kid, and to freeze this in 250 ml plastic bags.  You can then thaw and warm this as you need it. It is not a perfect solution but much better than a fawn getting no colostrum at all.
  
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21
  
I live in Sweden and raise orphaned roo deers. I am so happy for this site. I have learnt much. I wonder, can I give colostrum from a sheep to a deer? Hope for answer.
   Yes you can (and from a goat too).
     
     
22
 
How much lamb replacer do I mix in the water for my baby fawn, she's only a few days old? I thought I had it diluted OK but now she has diarrhoea. please help me. 
   You should mix the lamb replacer as directed on the pack, and the fawn will need additional oral fluids to counter dehydration (eg. Lectade or Vytrate).  If it stops drinking you should consult a veterinarian.
   
  

   

     
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