Fact Sheets page
FACT SHEET - IN BRIEF

IN BRIEF

Always ask a farmer why!!

Farm Design

This subject, even as important as it is, is only mentioned in passing. It would be naive to think that anyone could offer specific advice on this topic without seeing the farm concerned. The fundamental question is how many hectares of land do you wish to fence off. This will depend on the quality of the land, the species of deer you wish to farm and the number of deer you intend to run in order to make a certain income.

The farm layout is influenced mainly by the topography of the land.

You may have to consider at least some of the following:

Troughs

The supply of water to any farmed animal is a top priority. Lactating females in the larger species of deer will drink over 10 litres of water each day. Fortunately they do not have a routine, such as a dairy cows, and rarely will you find the whole herd wanting a drink at the same time. Troughs for deer can be quite small and only need a slow rate of recharge.

It is important that the fittings in the trough are well protected. Fallow are not as eager to play in troughs as Reds or Elk. The Reds love to wallow in the mud. Both Reds and Elk may stand in the trough in order to cool off. Reds love to splash water out of the trough to make a wallow nearby. Sometimes, if the valve in the trough is unprotected, they will break it and all your valuable water reserves will be lost.

Most farms would use 3/4" poly pipe to feed their troughs. It is possibly easier to put the main lines to the troughs in the ground before you start fencing. The depth you bury the poly pipe will depend on your soil type and your proposed soil management practices.

Gates

The extra demand coming from the emu and ostrich industry for deer-type gates has made them quite affordable to buy off the shelf.

It is best to hang a gate so that its normal hanging position is in line with the fence. If swung at right angles to the fence line, especially with treated pine posts, the post will move over time and the gate may eventually drag on the ground. Unless the gate has a specific purpose other than closing off a paddock, it should be swung so that it hangs flush with the fence line when open. If a deer is running along the fence, it may get caught between the fence and the gate. This situation should be avoided at all costs. The instinct of a deer tells it to go forward when it is nervous. Unless it realises that there is a problem well before it actually happens, "the best method of defence is attack". If frightened enough, the deer may blindly run along the fence and get caught behind the gate. It may simply bounce into the fence or jump around you depending on what the problem is. This situation is due, primarily, to bad management.

If the gate is to swing either way, it may be worth considering some way of keeping it in the position where you want it. The mesh of the gate offers a lot of resistance to the wind which can sometimes blow the gate where you don't want it. A piece of wood left near the gate may be very useful.

Gate latches are an important item on a deer farm. They should not protrude into the laneway or paddock. Many stories have been told about deer opening gates and wandering off to another paddock. If the latch is put in where the wire is tied at the strainer post, they should not be able to reach it. Problem solved - without any expensive spring-loaded gismos.

Trees

There seems little doubt that trees are an important asset to any farm. Their purpose may be to beautify, to provide shelter for stock or a windbreak for pasture, to provide a visual or sound barrier, to lower ground water levels, or provide future income via agroforestry. Their position and protection must be well planned.

Elk and Red deer kill trees. It is not as big a problem with Fallow deer. The natural behaviour of the larger species causes them to mark out their territory by rubbing either their scent glands or antler on the trees. In a farming situation, where there is a high concentration of stock in a restricted area, the trees are eventually ringbarked and will die.

Deer are a browsing animal. If you want proof of this, throw a branch of black or silver wattle over the fence to a mob of deer. Stand back and watch what happens. They will play with it, thrash about in it and eat the leaves and the bark.

Well designed treeguards are most important. If they are too small in height, the deer (like goats) simply use them as a step ladder to reach higher branches. It is more cost-effective to fence off larger areas for trees. It is your decision as to the size of the area you need fenced off. It is land that will be no longer available for grazing. In this light it is often best to take the least productive land and fence this off for trees. Octagonal areas are generally accepted as the best shape to fence off. The reasoning behind this is the actual strain put on the posts is a lot less, for example than square structures, and expensive strainer assemblies need not be used. Remember to take into account the afternoon sun and the prevailing wind directions when deciding which trees to plant where within the structure.

Copper

We talk a lot about "a balanced diet". In such discussions, the major inputs mentioned are protein levels, energy levels and roughage. For the maintenance of good health, all ruminants need a range of minerals and trace elements. Although these are only required in very small amounts, a lack of any of them has serious repercussions. Copper, a trace element, often seems to be lacking.

Copper is generally found deep in the soil, beyond the top soil utilised by average pastures. Browsing animals, such as deer, generally have high copper requirements. They will eat the newer growth of bushes, shrubs and trees which have deep roots and high concentrations of copper in their foliage.

Copper is an essential component of enzymes, protein and pigment within the body of all species. The process of copper absorption is complex but it ends up in the liver, where it is stored. It is released into the bloodstream when required. Knowing this simple fact implies that, if you are testing animals for their copper status, you should test their liver. The liver, being the supplier of copper to the blood, will be the first place to show a deficiency. The easiest way to check the copper status of your deer is from a liver sample. When you take stock to the abattoirs, collect a liver and take it to your Vet. to have it tested.

There are a number of methods to build up the copper levels in your herd if they are copper deficient. Copper sulphate can be added to water, put in licks or top dressed (although it is very soluble and is easily leached out of the soil). These methods are unreliable as the amount consumed by a particular animal is unknown. The preferred method is copper capsules, given orally, twice a year. As deer metabolise copper quickly, this slow release treatment, although more work, seems to be the best.

An anonymous Elk farmer from Bittern uses the following copper program. All of his cows get 10gms of copper oxide in January and August. The bulls receive 20gms at the same time. All weaners receive a dose of 10gms of copper oxide in March and August. Look for a rough, curling or faded coat as an external indicator. Deer that lack copper may be eating well but will not perform as would be expected.

To be certain you have a problem you should check with your Vet. It may also be helpful to have a soil analysis and a plant tissue analysis performed to give you a broad idea of your farm's state of health.

Hand Rearing Fawns/Calves

Although hand rearing fawns is not a common occurrence, it does happen. There are many varying methods and recipes for hand raising young stock. Ideally, it is best if you can milk the mother for her colostrum and give this to the fawn. That is a lot easier said than done!! If you have a friend with some goat's colostrum stored in a freezer, this is the next best thing. If all this fails, there are still plenty of options.

As a rule of thumb, the fawn requires 15-20% of its body weight in feed intake to grow at a satisfactory rate. It is important to quickly get the fawn into a routine which does not interfere with your life too much. Make sure they have a warm spot to hide in. The first few days are critical to its survival as its mother is not around to protect it. After the first two feeds you are "the mother". A call as you enter its territory will bring it scampering up to you for a feed.

One of the joys of motherhood is that the mother ingests the faeces of her fawn. There are two reasons for this behaviour. First, the hind may be trying to remove all traces of the young's existence so that less predators will be attracted to the area. Secondly, the mother may be picking up any bugs or problems with which the undeveloped immune system cannot yet cope. The mother sorts out the problem in her system and puts the required antibodies in her milk to help the fawn out until its own immune system can cope.

If you wipe the anus of the fawn while it is sniffing around the bottle it may induce it to drink. It will induce it to defecate. Just wipe the anus clean with a moist cloth while the fawn is drinking.

The first three to four weeks are very critical. The fawn is still developing its immune system. Keep all your feeding equipment clean. Always check the texture of the faeces. If the faeces becomes too moist it is best to reduce the richness of your mixture and substitute the liquid with an electrolyte replacer. Make sure the fawn always has access to water.

If all goes well, and you end up with a "pet", your problems are just beginning. A female hand reared fawn is not a problem. They may be demanding and continually get in the road but their quietness may be beneficial to your herd in the paddock as she grows up. A male hand reared fawn should either be castrated or eaten. They have no fear of you and, if allowed to remain entire, are extremely dangerous in the rut.

Kill or castrate!!

Page courtesy of VicDeer

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